Boka

Dane Chilton
Aug 8
3 min read

Chicago, Illinois

Dinner – Winter/Spring 2025

'Final Dane Score: 4.1 — Recommended.

Precise, polished, and just shy of amazing.

Boka wears its Michelin star quietly. Tucked into a warm, slightly low-lit corner of Lincoln Park, it trades spectacle for subtlety. It has dark wood, sleek leather, and a soft glow. It’s comfortable and safe. There’s no flourish or theatrical reveal. It looks like a place meant to impress, but only if you know what you’re looking for.

And perhaps that’s the point. But for a starred restaurant, I expected a touch more personality in the room... more something. Instead, the ambiance fades into the background. Nice enough. But unremarkable.

The Meal

We opted for the à la carte route which is a decision I quietly regret, if only because the tasting menu may have delivered a clearer expression of the kitchen’s ambition. Still, the meal we had was composed, thoughtful, and skillfully done.

The Kaluga Caviar Service was presented in a charming, if slightly eccentric, egg-shaped vessel, with creme fraiche, cucumber, buckwheat, and a whisper of maple. Clever and definitely playful. The kind of dish that reminds you you’re in the right place.

The Dry-Aged Beef Tartare was a standout. Finished with green bean, dill, and vadouvan; it precise, with just enough funk to keep it interesting. Easily one of the best tartares I’ve had in recent months. It carried the weight of technique without feeling performative.

For my main, the Black Truffle Roasted Chicken, which was roasted with tarragon, summer squash, and a Banyuls-based jus. Cooked beautifully. The skin was crisp, the interior juicy, and the truffle note was quiet in a good way, not drowned in earthiness, but lifted with balance. I liked it. But at this level with this reputation... I want to be stopped in my tracks. This didn’t quite manage that.

The Drinks

We began with a conversation with the sommelier, who was helpful and enthusiastic, guiding us to a bottle that paired with the menu. The list itself is deep, with thoughtful picks across French, California, and lesser-known producers. Curated but not overbearing. No complaints here.

The Service and Experience

This is where things faltered subtly, but noticeably. For a Michelin-starred experience, the service lacked rhythm. Not rude. Not inattentive. Just... off. Pacing was uneven, transitions between courses lacked fluidity, and at times it felt like the table had been slightly forgotten. These are small things. But they matter.

Boka is refined, thoughtful, and technically sound. The team in the kitchen knows exactly what they’re doing, and the menu reflects that. But somewhere between the polished technique and the politeness, the experience loses energy. It’s good. No question. But in a city this crowded with high-end competition and at a price point that demands emotional reaction, I expected to feel more. The meal was well-structured, but lacked oomph.

Would the tasting menu have changed this? Maybe. But that’s a question that shouldn’t have to linger.

The Dane Standard

Category Score

Palate 4.3

Atmosphere 4.0

Service 3.8

Identity 4.2

Final Score 4.1 – Recommended.

Boka does many things right. The food is elegant and the room aesthetically assured. But for all the accolades and all the cost it left me wanting more. Not more food. More feeling. Michelin gave it a star. I’ll give it credit. But don’t expect to leave dreaming about it.